DR: Everyone thinks the secret to great skin is more — more steps, more actives, more trends. But what happens when we look at skin through a different lens? From Chinese skincare innovation to Korean ingredients to the reality of seasonal skin changes. What if smarter, not more actually wins?
Today, I’m really fortunate to have Dr. Jenny Liu, a board-certified dermatologist known for her science-driven education across Instagram and Red Note. She practices in Bellevue where she serves a large Chinese and East Asian community and educates millions across the globe. Let’s take a deep dive into how education builds trust, what’s happening in Asian cosmetic science, and how seasonal and cultural nuances shape the way people use skincare.
I’m so excited to have you on, Dr. Liu.
JL: Thank you so much for having me. Such an honor to be here and chat about all things skincare and more.
DR: We got to see each other in Shanghai this summer, which was really cool.
JL: Yeah — lots of Asian connections between you and I.
DR: I know. We had to go across the world to actually meet up. You have an amazing podcast. I’ve seen you on Instagram — I haven’t taken a deep dive into Red Note yet, but I know it’s a big platform for you too.
JL: You should definitely go on it. It’s fun to scroll. I initially got on for cooking — this was more than three years ago, postpartum, looking for authentic Chinese recipes. That was also when social media for physicians was starting in China. A friend of mine — Harvard Jeff — he’s a board-certified dermatologist in the U.S. but has been living in China for five-plus years due to COVID. I saw his content and was inspired, so I repurposed my U.S. Instagram content with Chinese captions/subtitles and built a community from there.
DR: It’s not a little community — it’s pretty big. That’s amazing.
JL: Thank you. It’s interesting — it feels like early COVID again where there’s a real thirst for information. Since I started, there’s been an explosion of dermatologists and healthcare providers on the platform. And when TikTok was about to be banned, I saw a surge in followers. Now a lot of my commenters aren’t in China — they’re Mandarin speakers in the U.S., Australia, Malaysia. It’s a wide audience.
DR: You’re educating the globe, which is amazing. How did this start for you? Was it residency or afterwards?
JL: Immediately post-residency. I’ve been on Instagram since 2016 — almost 10 years. I graduated, my husband was still in residency, we didn’t have kids yet, and I became medical director of a dermatology practice. I didn’t want hospital administration, but it happened out of necessity. I needed a creative outlet. I already loved Instagram for cooking and fashion, so I started sharing life as a woman in medicine — dermatology, skincare. Then COVID happened and channels grew fast. Brands recognized the importance of dermatologist expertise — partnering to educate, consult, and talk about products.
DR: Now brands are reaching out to dermatologists constantly. How do you decide what to work with?
JL: Early on, it was brands I recommended for years — CeraVe, La Roche-Posay, SkinCeuticals. When COVID hit, I went live with CeraVe and La Roche-Posay and educated on their channels. That was natural because I already used them in practice.
With newer brands — especially Korean, or even European — if I don’t know the product, I want studies and information. I also have to use it myself before I agree to talk about it. We get flooded with emails, and most I don’t respond to or I turn down because I don’t know the brand well enough. I’ve turned down big deals because the ask was crazy and I didn’t feel comfortable endorsing. Social media is fun and flexible, but credibility comes first. I still practice, and I won’t give that up. I’m not an influencer — I don’t need Instagram to support myself.
DR: That integrity is what people love about you. Okay — people always ask this: what’s your skincare routine?
JL: I love a gentle exfoliant. I don’t use it regularly — if I remember, I’ll do it. But the backbone hasn’t changed in 12-plus years:
Morning: cleanse, vitamin C, moisturizer, sunscreen.
Night: peptide or rejuvenating serum, topical retinoid, moisturizer.
A few times a week: add an exfoliant.
I also change moisturizers depending on the season. I like trying fun things because we get PR, and I’m curious — especially with innovations out of Asia. But if I’m irritated or my skin feels sensitive with age or seasonal changes, I’ll skip exfoliation first.
DR: My skin knows when the weather changes. New York gets cold and my eczema flares — I have to take it easy. I always patch test new products.
JL: That’s smart. I tell people to do that, but I don’t always do it myself.
DR: I also mix a retinoid into my body moisturizer for total-body retinoids, but it can flare my eczema.
JL: Do you use retinol or tretinoin all over your body?
DR: Prescription strength. A little goes a long way. It’s great for KP.
JL: If you ever formulate a body retinol, I want to be first to try it. Body care and scalp care are trending — “skinification” beyond just the face.
DR: There’s a lot of focus on scalp health and body skincare now.
JL: It can be nice, but it’s not necessary. For the average person, dedicated products can be easier and less irritating than using prescription tretinoin incorrectly.
DR: What are you most excited about coming out of Asia? We talked about collagen.
JL: In China, collagen is huge — topical and injectable, especially post-procedure. Collagen type III (recombinant) was big as a skin booster. There were collagen type III sheet masks and recovery creams, and SkinCeuticals China even had a locally formulated collagen III skin booster and serum.
This time, experts are excited about injectable collagen type I. It can give instant volumization, but they’re also using it for under-eye rejuvenation and dark circles, plus longer-term collagen building. It’s like a middle ground between biostimulatory fillers and skin hydration. I also heard there’s data coming suggesting benefits for melasma via professionally injected skin booster methods.
DR: That’s fascinating — ingredients that mimic what’s already in the skin. We’re also seeing salmon sperm injections and now reports of granulomas or nodules. I’ve seen patients come back from Korea with nodules after PDRN injections.
JL: Do you think it’s the product, or just one of the risks because it’s so new?
DR: The FDA approval process is slow, but rigorous. It holds a high safety bar, and we need to understand risks and benefits before offering something broadly — especially in patients. Things can get pushed out quickly elsewhere, and then we learn about risks later. I’m not going to try things on patients without solid data and case studies.
JL: In the U.S., people can find places offering injectable salmon sperm, but most don’t realize it’s not FDA approved. So where is the product coming from? Is it legitimate? We’ve all heard horror stories about counterfeit injectables. I don’t offer it and won’t until there’s an FDA-approved injectable version. There is an FDA-approved option used topically after microneedling (not injectable), which is different.
DR: We’ll see more “bio-identical” ingredients like nucleotides, but we still need research on what they’re doing.
JL: Exactly — just because it’s new doesn’t mean it’s better. Or safer.
DR: When you educate your audience, do they want deep science or more superficial guidance?
JL: For short-form video, shorter and more black-and-white performs better — people have no attention span. The issue is medicine isn’t black-and-white. I like deeper explanations, so I love YouTube and sometimes Red Note for longer-form education. For complicated topics, I’ll break one topic into multiple videos as a series. Some people want depth; others just want “tell me what to use.”
DR: That was my hardest hurdle too — we’re trained to give all risks and benefits, and leaving out nuance feels uncomfortable. But attention spans are short, so you have to be concise.
DR: What’s trending in your practice right now — especially with seasonal changes?
JL: Seasonal shifts matter — we change clothing, and we should adjust skincare basics too. I’m seeing dullness, dry skin, and even breakouts from dryness because people aren’t used to sudden change. Dandruff flares too.
I recommend:
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Anti-dandruff shampoo more often (sometimes prescription)
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Switching to a more nourishing moisturizer
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Considering a gentler cleanser (less foaming, more creamy)
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Gentle exfoliation for body (like lactic acid options)
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For face: hydrating essences or gentle acids that improve dullness and hydration without damaging the barrier
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Adjusting actives: if someone is too dry/sensitive on tretinoin, step down to retinol or introduce retinoids more slowly
DR: In summer I do lighter serum because it’s humid. In winter I need heavier moisturization — there’s no amount of water that fixes dry skin without layering hydration.
JL: Exactly. Gentle acids like lactic acid or PHAs are great because they improve turnover and act as humectants, supporting hydration. They also help hyperpigmentation, which is a big concern in Bellevue’s Asian community.
DR: Hyperpigmentation is something so many people struggle with. A stepwise, gentle approach is tried and true — people stick to it. That’s why I use lactic acid in my formulation. It’s a powerhouse.
JL: Lactic acid is one of my favorites — gentle, barrier-supportive, improves pigment and dullness, suitable for many skin types.
DR: Let’s play “Keep or Cancel.” Salmon sperm / PDRN — keep or cancel?
JL: Keep — but we need more studies. If someone is going to do it, I’d rather they do it in Korea.
DR: Collagen type I vs type III obsession?
JL: Collagen type I is the trend — keep. I hope we have options in the U.S. someday.
DR: PRP vs PRF?
JL: Can I keep both?
DR: You can keep both. I use them differently.
DR: Glass skin aesthetic?
JL: Keep the original idea — hydrated skin that reflects light. What I don’t like is when it becomes “perfect skin” pressure.
DR: Exosomes?
JL: Keep, but we need more data. I don’t have exosomes in my practice right now.
DR: Jelly cleansers?
JL: Fun, but not necessary.
DR: Slugging?
JL: Keep — especially in winter, a few nights a week.
DR: What do you use?
JL: CeraVe Healing Ointment. Petrolatum works, but it’s too greasy for me.
DR: Skin booster injectables?
JL: Keep. I’ve done multiple rounds in China. The glow and hydration are great. There are blends abroad — collagen, polylactic acid, different formats. I just wish we had more options here.
DR: Microbiome skincare?
JL: Keep. I like the message. Pre- and post-biotic ingredients can be helpful. I don’t know if you need “microbiome-only” products, but brands like Avène and La Roche-Posay do formulations that support the microbiome.
JL: Okay — now I’m going to ask you some. Retinoids or peptides?
DR: Peptides. Retinoids are great, but they make my eczema go wild.
JL: PRP or PRF?
DR: PRP — more versatile. PRF can be great under eyes because it hangs around longer.
JL: Barrier repair or exfoliation?
DR: Barrier repair. Gentle exfoliation helps, but barrier comes first.
JL: Three-step or multi-step layering?
DR: Three-step. Less is more. Multi-step when I’m pampering.
JL: Korean essences or American serums?
DR: Korean essence all the way.
JL: Ingredients list or results?
DR: Ingredients list. Form follows function — a strong base leads to results.
JL: Mineral, hybrid, or chemical sunscreen?
DR: Mineral. It blocks well and chemical filters can irritate me. But the best sunscreen is the one you’ll actually use consistently.
DR: Last question — this show is called Give Good Face. What does it mean to you to give good face?
JL: It means doing what makes sense for you and your skin so you feel confident — not chasing trends or what other people are doing. You don’t need to do something just because everyone is talking about it. We’re all different, and culture plays a huge role in what people want and what’s popular.
DR: I love that. Thank you so much for being here, Dr. Liu.
JL: Thank you so much. It’s such an honor to be on this show. We’ll have to chat more — and do a part two.
DR: Definitely. And I encourage everyone to follow you — Instagram is Derm.talk, YouTube is dr.jennieliu, and TikTok is dr.jennieliu. Great to see you.
JL: Thank you so much. We’ll talk soon. Bye.
DR: Thanks. Bye.
Asian Skincare Innovation & Trends with Dr. Jenny Liu
On This Week's Episode:
In this episode of Give Good Face, board-certified dermatologist Dr Anthony Rossi sits down with Dr Jenny Liu, a Bellevue-based dermatologist who educates millions online and serves a large East Asian patient population. Together, they unpack one of the most debated questions in modern dermatology: Is Asian skincare truly more advanced, or are consumers misunderstanding what actually makes it effective?
This conversation explores how Asian skincare innovation often moves faster than the U.S. market, including why cosmetic science in countries like South Korea and China can outpace FDA timelines. Dr. Liu explains what Asian skincare genuinely gets right—such as formulation elegance, ingredient education, and preventive care—while also addressing where hype overtakes evidence.
The episode takes a critical look at trending topics like collagen type I and III injectables emerging from China, the rise of salmon sperm and exosome treatments, and whether these innovations are clinically ready for widespread adoption. Dr. Rossi and Dr. Liu also discuss microbiome skincare, glass skin, slugging, and injectable skin boosters, separating dermatologist-approved strategies from social-media-driven misinformation.
Beyond products and procedures, the discussion highlights how cultural habits, climate, and seasonal skin changes influence skincare routines—and why blindly copying trends without understanding skin biology can damage the skin barrier. The episode emphasizes education, data, and clinical integrity over viral trends, offering practical guidance for adjusting skincare routines safely throughout the year.
This episode is essential listening for anyone interested in Asian skincare, global cosmetic innovation, dermatology-backed beauty advice, and evidence-based skincare trends.
Guest Bio:
As an adjunct assistant professor at the University of Minnesota, Dr. Jenny Liu brings a wealth of clinical experience and academic insight, with a special focus on ethnic skin, general dermatology, and cosmetic innovation. A nationally recognized expert in cosmetic dermatology, Dr. Liu has consulted for leading skincare brands and contributed to cutting-edge research in aesthetic treatments. Her dynamic social media presence—where she shares evidence-based skincare advice with a global audience—has made her a trusted voice in both professional and patient communities.
Fluent in English and Mandarin, Dr. Liu is passionate about culturally competent care and personalized treatment. Outside the clinic, she enjoys traveling, cooking, and spending time with her husband, an ENT physician, and their two children.
Episode Transcript: